Further to comments and suggestions re. choice of guide wire, I attach a
diagram which may seem obvious but nevertheless very important. I
appreciate that piano/music wire in straight lengths may not be as easily
available in some countries as it is here in the uk. and I would strongly
recommend paying the extra cost of postage for this item so as to ensure
success with your track. The lane change plates are also important. Any
steel will do but it must be flat and it must be the correct thickness. If too
thick, the car will not turn and if too thin, the car will turn too much and leave
the track.
Any change of guide wire thickness from that recommended would also mean
a change in the thickness of the l/c plate. This could mean lots of experimentation. These things are very important and we want you to succeed with your Magracing.
Regards WesR
Guide wire choice
Re: Guide wire choice
Wire/magnet diagram
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Re: Guide wire choice
I can confirm this. 
I did try with something else, and the price was lower, but there was to many time I need to remove the wire because it was to soft and was not straight.
too much work is not ok, even is you save a little money.
I did try with something else, and the price was lower, but there was to many time I need to remove the wire because it was to soft and was not straight.
too much work is not ok, even is you save a little money.
/Keld
Re: Guide wire choice
I agree with Keld.
Your choice of guide wire is extremely important to the success of your track and ultimately your enjoyment with MagRacing. I have been experimenting with various techniques and materials before building a large outdoor track. Per Wes's suggestion, I'm using wire that is heavier than the .028” diameter wire he originally recommended, because I plan to run cars that are a little heavier than the original cars with 3” wheel bases and lightweight body shells.
At the time he did not offer heavier wire for sale. I purchased a pound (about 305 feet) of .035” diameter, 1080 carbon steel, phosphate coated, music wire (also known as piano wire, spring-back wire, and spring temper wire) for $8.74 + shipping. http://www.mcmaster.com/#music-wire/=rpgorc
It was delivered as a coil in a box 4.5” square. When I cut a section from the coil it opens naturally to a 10”-11” circle. Straightening it with tools available to the average homeowner/hobbyist is not possible. I tried many techniques. Even talked to a rep from the manufacturer, Malin Co. in Cleveland, Ohio. So I ordered 200 pieces of the same kind of wire, except that each piece is 12” long and straight. The straightened wire is a pleasure to work with, compared to the wire from the coil. It cost 3 times more but it's worth it.
Regardless of whether you glue the wire on top of your baseboard or glue it into a groove (slot), I strongly recommend that you use straight, instead of coiled, steel music wire. My straightened wire is easy to form around a tight 7” radius curve. (I'm not sure if my cars will even run around a curve that tight. I'll find out in a few weeks.) If your track will be exposed to moisture, tin coated would probably be better than phosphate coated. Do NOT use stainless steel wire.
Ned
Your choice of guide wire is extremely important to the success of your track and ultimately your enjoyment with MagRacing. I have been experimenting with various techniques and materials before building a large outdoor track. Per Wes's suggestion, I'm using wire that is heavier than the .028” diameter wire he originally recommended, because I plan to run cars that are a little heavier than the original cars with 3” wheel bases and lightweight body shells.
At the time he did not offer heavier wire for sale. I purchased a pound (about 305 feet) of .035” diameter, 1080 carbon steel, phosphate coated, music wire (also known as piano wire, spring-back wire, and spring temper wire) for $8.74 + shipping. http://www.mcmaster.com/#music-wire/=rpgorc
It was delivered as a coil in a box 4.5” square. When I cut a section from the coil it opens naturally to a 10”-11” circle. Straightening it with tools available to the average homeowner/hobbyist is not possible. I tried many techniques. Even talked to a rep from the manufacturer, Malin Co. in Cleveland, Ohio. So I ordered 200 pieces of the same kind of wire, except that each piece is 12” long and straight. The straightened wire is a pleasure to work with, compared to the wire from the coil. It cost 3 times more but it's worth it.
Regardless of whether you glue the wire on top of your baseboard or glue it into a groove (slot), I strongly recommend that you use straight, instead of coiled, steel music wire. My straightened wire is easy to form around a tight 7” radius curve. (I'm not sure if my cars will even run around a curve that tight. I'll find out in a few weeks.) If your track will be exposed to moisture, tin coated would probably be better than phosphate coated. Do NOT use stainless steel wire.
Ned
Re: Guide wire choice
All good advice Ned. When building my oval track, I had some problems getting the bigger cars to run straight and decided that heavier wire could be the answer.
I now have approx. half the track in .028" and half in .036"! But I really think now that the most important factor is getting the wire flush with the surface. I use our
Linford 2 road circuit as a test circuit and when I looked at this carefully, I could see that in places along the main straight, the wire was definately below the surface.
I think the card I used on this was a few thou. thicker than the wire and, when you add the glue and paint, it all adds up. After sanding down until the wire showed through the paint, the Nascar saloons ran perfectly straight on the main straight and now lap just as well as the sports cars. And of course each joint must be perfectly in line.
I now have approx. half the track in .028" and half in .036"! But I really think now that the most important factor is getting the wire flush with the surface. I use our
Linford 2 road circuit as a test circuit and when I looked at this carefully, I could see that in places along the main straight, the wire was definately below the surface.
I think the card I used on this was a few thou. thicker than the wire and, when you add the glue and paint, it all adds up. After sanding down until the wire showed through the paint, the Nascar saloons ran perfectly straight on the main straight and now lap just as well as the sports cars. And of course each joint must be perfectly in line.