My 1967 Porsche 910 Spyder

[Ned]

Here are a few pictures of my 1967 Porsche 910 Spyder. I obtained the body from Lasp when I bought some other used magracing gear from him about 1 1/2 years ago. When the body arrived, I didn’t think I’d be able to use it because it’s so small.



This car was built using Chassis Kit CK1 which is available at https://www.shapeways.com/shops/magracingunlimited
Stock magracing wheels were used. The width of the front wheels was reduced a little. All 4 wheels were wrapped in masking tape to improve traction and colored black with a permanent felt tip marker.



Stock front and rear axles are used in this car.



The body by itself weighs 21 grams. The entire car with the battery weighs 69 grams.



As you can see in the photo below, this car is much narrower than the stock magracer beside it. The battery barely fits between the rocker panels of the body. The Porsche 910 also has a shorter wheelbase.



Stock motor, gears, steering coil, and PCB were used to build this car.



A small part of the cockpit had to be removed to get the body to fit properly relative to the wheels. Three magnets glued to the body are used to hold the body and chassis together. This car runs very well on my track, even with the stock wheels.

[BriG]

Ned,

I absolutely love what you're doing using 1/32 scale bodies with your chassis to create these magracers.

You seem to have quite a stable of cars now, and assuming you've run some of them and really put some track time on them, which way would you recommend to configure the front wheels as far as which wears the best, using the axles fixed in the knuckles or spinning in the knuckles with the wheels? Just wondering if one has an advantage over the other using the wheels off the slot car.

Also, have you actually tried different gearing for the rear axle? I know you mentioned getting different acceleration and top speeds, and if you have, is it better to just stick with the original gear, or run something different using the heavier bodies? Maybe it just really depends on each individual car?

I've acquired a few LMP slot cars, two late 80's, and an earlier Ferrari. Also a GT40 and Chaparrell, and the intent if all works out is to turn them all into magracers. I finally found 3 cars/controllers to cannibalize, should have them soon. I guess the only way to do what you've done is to have original chassis to get the parts from, so I hope to get going and luckily find a few more.

One more question if you happen to know, how many different frequencies were available with Wes' cars, or can they be made to operate independent of one another regardless of how many?

I hope to maybe ask your input on which of your chassis I should choose when I get to that point.

Thanks for your time and everything you've done so far in making it possible for others to make the conversions like you have.

Brian

[Keld]

There are 16 different frequencies and you can there fore handle 16 cars individual.

But if you want to you can set as many cars you want at one controller if you just want them to drive the same speed

I think that could be a feature if you have a oval for etc nascars then having maybe 10 cars running around at a fixed speed and you can race against them and manege the passing

[BriG]

Hi Keld,

Does the controller determine the frequency and then the car is matched to that to operate? In other words, the controller is a specific frequency, and not the car? Sorry I'm still trying to learn about how everything works.

Thanks

Brian

[Ned]

Glad you like the cars Brian. About a year ago I decided I wanted to design and build a chassis that would fit my Chaparral 2C body. I had heard about 3D printing, and investigated that possibility after encouragement and suggestions from other members of this forum. In December of last year I acquired my first 3D modeling software. Eventually I succeeded in designing a chassis that fits the Chaparral. Subsequent revisions of that chassis resulted in CK1 which just barely fits the tiny 1/32 scale Porsche 910 body.

You seem to have quite a stable of cars now, and assuming you've run some of them and really put some track time on them, which way would you recommend to configure the front wheels as far as which wears the best, using the axles fixed in the knuckles or spinning in the knuckles with the wheels? Just wondering if one has an advantage over the other using the wheels off the slot car.
I now have 7 cars that have been built with my various chassis. Several of these chassis are improved versions of prior ones. The last 3 cars I've built have axles which spin in the knuckles. I don't yet know which will wear the best. I doubt that there will be much of a difference concerning wear. The wheels look better when they're attached to the axles so that the axles spin in the knuckles. It's not clear to me if one performs better than the other.

Also, have you actually tried different gearing for the rear axle? I know you mentioned getting different acceleration and top speeds, and if you have, is it better to just stick with the original gear, or run something different using the heavier bodies? Maybe it just really depends on each individual car?
My last 3 cars use stock pinion gears but they have non-stock spur gears. Two of them have spur gears that came on the slot car axles. I wanted to see if they would work. They do. Also wanted to avoid enlarging the bore of the stock spur gear to fit the 3/32" axle. I think the original gear ratio is fine for casual racing for bodies weighing less than 30 grams. Motor may overheat in long distance races lasting more than an hour using stock gear ratio with heavier bodies. A larger diameter spur gear may be best on a very winding track with with very few straight sections over 6 feet long. On small windy tracks like those that might be permanently installed in a home, handling and cornering are more important than top speed.

I've acquired a few LMP slot cars, two late 80's, and an earlier Ferrari. Also a GT40 and Chaparrell, and the intent if all works out is to turn them all into magracers. I finally found 3 cars/controllers to cannibalize, should have them soon. I guess the only way to do what you've done is to have original chassis to get the parts from, so I hope to get going and luckily find a few more.
The GT40 will probably be a challenge because the body is so narrow along the rocker panels. I currently have 9 cars that run. Only the first 2 were bought new. I strip the parts of off of the stock chassis and use what I can along with my custom chassis. My chassis have two features I really like. First is that the wheelbase can be precisely adjusted easily to fit the wheel wells. Secondly, the height of the body, relative to the wheels, can be adjusted easily and precisely.

One more question if you happen to know, how many different frequencies were available with Wes' cars, or can they be made to operate independent of one another regardless of how many?
The cars and the transmitter/controllers each have a bank of 4 dip switches. Using the blade of a small screwdriver, just set the switches on the controller the same as the one on the car. Since each switch can be set to on or off I think there are 16 unique combination, so the system allows 16 different cars to race simultaneously and to be independently controlled. To compare the acceleration and top speed of two cars, configure both to be operated by the same controller. Put one right behind the other on the same lane and watch the relative performance.

[Keld]

Hi Keld,

Does the controller determine the frequency and then the car is matched to that to operate? In other words, the controller is a specific frequency, and not the car? Sorry I'm still trying to learn about how everything works.

Thanks

Brian

Hi Brian

The controller can be set to each one of the 16 frequencies.

Just like the car.

the only problem is when 2 controllers are sending at the same frequencies so do not try that