MAGracing Forum

Heat is the worst enemy of any tooled steel. MDF has resins in it that will get pretty hot while machining the board. Probably your best bet would be to to your cuts in short bursts giving the blade a chance to cool between bursts. This would probably be especially true when cutting curves where the blade must flex to cut 'round the curve. Rotary type blades really are only meant for straight cutting so special care must be taken to use them beyond their untended design.

MA

Thanks Mike. I might have pushed the saw a little hard also shortening the blade life even more.

Brion.

Hi guys,
I also will try the Dremel method, 'cause the plastering is sooo messy....
I made a support via 3d-printing.
I attached the thing with thin double-sided adhesive tape. The security mechanism of the saw is still working with this part.

Can you use normal woodglue?

Can you give an indication of how much glue one needs (per x meter or so)?

Renngarage wrote:Hi guys,
I made a support via 3d-printing.

Besides sharing that nice picture can you also share the design?

Jeee wrote:Can you use normal woodglue?

will this work? Or is that not advisable for some reason or is there something with a better price/quality ratio? thx!

http://www.bison.nl/nl-nl/producten/656 ... -waterkit/

I guess wood glue do not bind to steel.
But you would not need much contact glue only a drop every 10-15 cm.

The tight cut with the Dremel will do most of the 'hold down' when you squeeze the pianowire down.

The paint on top will do the rest.

kiklo wrote:I guess wood glue do not bind to steel.

I thought Keld was referring to this wood glue?
http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-E7010-Carp ... B0045PTHH8

Hello guys,

unfortunately stl-files can't be uploaded here
I think I have to open an account on thingiverse to share my 3D-Designs...

For gluing the wire down, I use the "yellow" contact-glue (Pattex in my case). As someone said, the wire sticks very well without glue, so not much is needed.