MAGracing Forum

I can tell from my early runs on my track and movin g ESC from car to car - there are differeces needed to be clearified.

It's a pitty manufacturer does not inform on voltage drop one their ESC. It can be notisable.

I'll set up a comparison chart here. What else is interesting to know ?

Battery Voltage, Max output voltage to the motor, stall voltage ?


Anyone with black belt in electronics ?
Is it possible with a 'turbo' mode - me thinking buypass the ESC and send full voltage from the battery to the motor.

This is a start.
The ESC I hav available.
Testing on a motor with no load.
The videoes vil give you a fair chance to hear the different RPM I got.
I charged the battery between each test.
I should have had a readout of the Voltage at no trottle - but I did not.
Voltage is from input on the motor.
The Yellow are the bulkiest without shrink-wrap. Videos comming.

Be aware. I got 2 different versions of the tiny ESC. One with components on 2 sides and one singlesided.

Both are working - I'll have to test the difference. If the dbl sided is similare to the old DS I have it have a 'strange' coasting feature.
When you let off the trottle it takes a second before it come to a 'no current' position.
It is the tiny in the middlel on the 1.st picture that behave lie this. Fully manageble but strange.

Below you see the 2 version I got today. The one with hotglue is the one I tested today.

Here are som testresults.

Don't bother with slight different start voltage - the important is voltage-loss in use.

All start Voltage are with receiver connected.

I have modified most of them with my connection-setup.

It's a pitty we can not get the Bdus anymore - I can not find it.
The 2 'DasMikro' are great but expencive.

The yellow one are fine, just be sure all your cars have the same.
Some are a steal at sub $ a unit.

Any additional comments are welcome.

Her are a few videos or esc a testing. Not all are from the data on the table !
You can hear the speed / Rpm, turn up the volume.

https://youtube.com/shorts/yWqLp8JQ2wQ

https://youtu.be/2FOZRuLPoN0

https://youtu.be/A22_CxVRfhs

https://youtube.com/shorts/DKsUaufuy5U

https://youtube.com/shorts/z0X2srltT7Q

Some thoughts.

Did some laps today with changing the ESC on same car.
Interesting enough I get same lap time with the BDUS (the one I'd say is the best). and the 2 og the ultra tiny ones. (10.6 - 10.9)
In the picture those I have ruind with the gluestick.
They are cheap, and good performer for our use.
So I'd say, go and grab some. Both the single sided and dbl. sided with the red 20mm motor wires.

The 'large' one in the yellow segment seems to be picky on voltage. If it dropes below 4 V. it takes a pause. Strange.

Kim,

Turbo? If you have room for another servo you can wire it in parallel with the motor. At full throttle the servo could close contacts that bypass the ESC. both sides of the battery need to connect directly to the motor through separate contacts. Probably hard to find space in 1/32 but OK in 1/24th?

It's hard to say what the ESC would think of being bypassed. It's FETs would be gated on in this condition, maybe it will conduct backward. It may be worth the experiment. A solid state solution will have the same voltage drop problem as the ESC.

Nick remember me?

I was wondering. Some of these esc have an extra set of wires going to the batteries. Some just take it from the receiver cables.
At our low current draw it should not be a problem. I ca not detect any difference in speed if I drop the extra cables.

I ran some new test on the 'large' one in the yellow section today. Did not have the voltage problem - ran nice until voltage dropped to 3.8.
So that is a nice on too. I'll buy some more of them comming nice in a 5 pack.

Concluding : All in the green or yellow sections are very useful for our needs.